rotate the arm and tie the camera above empty space; Then, note the presence of a clamping screw for the tilting head, quite compact and easy to manipulate, here again. There are three models of rotators you'll need to choose when placing your order: small rotator base, RD-3+EZ-Leveler or RD-16. Finally allows to make virtual tours - Learn more. Tripods and bases Preparatives It's very convenient but quite expensive and heavy. Preparatives In the tutorial dedicated to the creation of virtual tours on this site, I wrote an article about shooting the nadir with a tripod. 3 - The screw for choosing the number of half-stops - A third screw is used to choose half-notches hence 7°/2 = 3.75°. It couldn't be easier! - to rotate 180° the vertical arm to shoot the nadir. What lens ? from this site ! complete guide in 14 steps of photography by stitching. Very convenient! They can however be improved even more if you also make the in-depth setting as the illustration below: Problem: where is the nodal point (entrance pupil) for each lens? Consequently, the head is light but compact enough in this configuration hence stable. This manual panoramic head is one of the simplest ones to manipulate. I’ll also discuss the differences between the panoramic heads that they offer, and finally, how you can get a 10% discount, only until around July 26, 2018. Nodal Ninja 4 NN3 and NN6 can work with almost any camera as long as they fit, so they are more versatile than the R series or RS series. It is a multi-row panohead, just like the NN3, but instead of attaching to your camera, it uses a lens ring, just like the R series. Something like Wildcat S2Pro Electric VR720 ?? If I have a Sony A7Rii and a Sony 6300 can I use the Samyang SY75MFT-B 7.5mm f/3.5 Lens for Micro Four Thirds with either of these cameras?

Nodal Ninja 3 Mk3 head The clicks stop are "hidden" inside the base under the form of a detent rings more or less pierced of holes on each side. When the camera rotates around that famous point, the photos are most of the time perfectly stitched (because there can sometimes be another problem that materializes the same way.) Even though the Nodal Ninja cost around $100 more than the cheap panohead that I got, there was no question that it was a keeper. Measurement of the light They have a dozens and dozens of parts, and to a beginner, it’s not immediately apparent which products you need, or what the differences are between similar-looking products. There are two RS panoheads: RS-1 and RS-2. Like all panoramic heads, the Nodal Ninja 4 head is used to place the nodal point of your lens above the rotary axis of your head and in the tilting axis of the vertical arm to get perfect overlap zones, even in spherical photography. What’s the main difference in resolution and workflow between this two? Very, very convenient! The RS series is actually an endangered species because it is based on the previous version of the Nodal Ninja 3, the mark II. The good news is that if you like the RS Series, they are on clearance and you can get them at a very good price. Do I need the Nadir Adapter? Note that you will need both the R1 or R20 and the lens ring for your fisheye lens. The RS series is a ring-mount multi-row panoramic head. So you install the 12 holes clip above or you choose the Quick 12 clicks on the Gobi head. For NN6, the limit is 15 inches. Notably, the RS series works with the Nadir Adapter for Nodal Ninja 3 mk II, which lets you take a clean nadir shot from the same height as the nodal point.


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